The Curly Girl Method can feel confusing at first, but it doesn’t have to be. If you’re new to caring for wavy or curly hair, this ultimate guide explains exactly what the Curly Girl Method is, what to avoid, how to follow it, curl types, and how to build a routine that works for your hair.
What is the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) was created by Lorraine Massey and popularized in The Curly Girl Handbook. It’s all about avoiding harsh products and habits and using moisture, gentle cleansing, and styling that works with your hair’s natural shape.
Over time, your curls or waves will become healthier, with more bounce, better definition, and less frizz.
The Basics: What To Avoid
✔️ Sulfates
✔️ Non-water soluble silicones
✔️ Drying alcohols
✔️ Brushing dry hair
✔️ Frequent heat styling
✔️ Terrycloth towels
✔️ Frequent dyeing or chemical treatments (optional, but helpful)
What To Use Instead
✔️ Sulfate-free cleansers or co-washes
✔️ Silicone-free conditioners and styling products
✔️ Emollients (light oils and butters)
✔️ Humectants (glycerin, honey)
✔️ Style on wet hair, scrunching or raking product in
✔️ Plop with a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel
✔️ Diffuse on low heat if needed
✔️ Sleep with a silk pillowcase or bonnet
Curl Types Explained
Some people place great importance on curl types to choose products. But really texture, porosity, and density are more important. Regardless, I’ll go over all the curl types here.
Type 2 Wavy Hair
- 2A: has a slight wave, usually fine and thin, tousled look
- 2B: straight at the roots with an s shape, frizz at the crown
- 2C: more defined waves that start at the roots, more frizz
Type 3 Curls
- 3A: big, loose curls and spirals, well defined s shape, the circumference of sidewalk chalk
- 3B: tighter curls, the circumference of a sharpie, has more volume
- 3C: tightly packed corkscrews, the circumference of a straw
Type 4 Coils
- 4A: dense and springy coils, wiry or fine
- 4B: more z like shape than curls or coils, strands range from fine to coarse
- 4C: less definition and more shrinkage than 4B, very delicate
So what’s my curl type? I have 2b, 2c, and 3a waves and curls. I used to be all 2b but it got curlier over time.
That is not always the case but it does often change throughout life, which is one reason I think curl type is not as important as people make it out to be.
Not sure what your curl type is? It doesn’t matter! Figure out your texture, porosity, and density for best results using the quiz below.
How to follow the Curly Girl Method
1️⃣ Do a final wash with a sulfate shampoo to remove old buildup.
2️⃣ Switch to sulfate-free cleansers from now on.
3️⃣ Choose CGM-approved basics: cleanser, conditioner, styler, clarifier.
4️⃣ Style on soaking wet hair—try scrunching, raking, or plopping.
5️⃣ Diffuse on low or air dry. Avoid high heat.
6️⃣ Protect your curls at night with a silk pillowcase or bonnet.
7️⃣ Clarify once a month to remove buildup and keep your scalp fresh.
8️⃣ Deep condition monthly (or more often if needed).
9️⃣ Pay attention to what works—write it down and adjust as you learn.
👉 For a full beginner routine, check my How To Build A Curly Hair Routine post.
Build A Routine That Lasts
- Keep your routine simple: cleanse, condition, style, protect.
- Be flexible: tweak products with the seasons or weather.
- Don’t chase trends – focus on how your hair feels.
- Track your progress. My Curly Journey Journal makes it easy.
- Be patient. Real change takes weeks or months, not days.
For help layering steps together, see How To Build A Curly Hair Routine.
Curly Journey Journal – Spreadsheet Version
If you prefer a digital tool and like using Google Sheets, then this is the right option for you.
You can track from any device and record all the same stats, plus you can add photos.
We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.
FAQs About The Curly Girl Method
How long until I see results? Most people see changes in a few weeks, but bigger transformations take months.
Can I use heat? Limit it. Diffusing on low or medium is fine.
Do I have to co-wash only? No. Many use sulfate-free low-poos instead of co-washing. I actually don’t recommend cowashing at all, as you’re not properly cleaning the scalp.
Why does my hair look worse at first? This is normal! The transition phase can bring frizz or limp curls while your hair detoxes from buildup.
Final Curly Girl Method Tips
I want to offer some advice:
Keep it simple and focus on what matters. Don’t let yourself be overwhelmed.
Confucius
I see women get so overwhelmed and frustrated with this method. The whole point of going to your natural hair is simplicity. Back to basics. No more being a slave to the flat iron.
This process takes a long time. You have likely been mistreating your hair for many years so you have to be realistic about how long it will take to bring back your waves and curls.
Yes, in the beginning, you will need to experiment with products and methods, and that will take time. But you don’t need to spend hours on your hair for this to work. You don’t need to apply 8 different products for this to work.
You don’t need to try everything you see others doing!
✔️ Don’t buy 10 new products, start small.
✔️ Learn your hair’s needs: porosity, density, texture.
✔️ Accept some frizz – it’s normal!
✔️ Focus on application over products. Products don’t make as much of a difference.
✔️ Stick with it and adjust slowly.
✨ Want extra help? Grab my Quick Start Guide below and keep it simple.
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